HIKING IN MONTI SIBILLINI 28. – 29. MAY 2009

We met Enrico for the first time in October 2008 when we got to participate in a tour with Club Alpino Italiano - Sezioni di Foligno, in the mountains near Trevi with Monte Serano as the highest peak. On this tour, Enrico told us about a trip that the club planned from Assisi to Trevi in late May / June 2009. As the trip coincided with a Yoga course at Il Convento, we decided to participate in the Yoga course and attend the journey afterwards. The day before we left for Italy, we got to know from Live that the trip was cancelled because of too few participants. We had understood by mails from Enrico that this might happen. Live, as the caring person she is, thought it was sad that we should not be able to make a mountain trip, so she asked Enrico to take us for a trip to an area that she knew we would appreciate very much. Piano Grande with adjacent delights - of course, she was right! In two days we got to enjoy the luxury it is to walk in a beautiful and contrasting landscape followed by a professional guide. I can assure that we enjoyed every moment! Live had agreed with Enrico that we should meet him in Foligno Thursday morning following the yoga course. From there we drove together to Norcia, a lovely little medieval town known for its delicious cheeses and meat products, especially from wild boars. The car trip from Foligno to Norcia went through a hilly and fertile landscape. Enrico knew a cosy Bed & Breakfast close to Norcia where we would stay overnight. There we left our luggage before we went up into the mountains and into the national park. By Norcia we saw the first plains. These were cultivated fields and formed a beautiful patchwork pattern with different colours and shades as contrast to the mountains around. The road up the hill was steep and winding like a road in western parts of Norway with surprising views and colourful flowers along the road. Enrico was a patient driver who stopped for taking pictures where ever we wanted to, but we soon realized that we had to enjoy the view from the car if we should reach the hiking. Piano Grande is located in the part of Monti Sibillini National Park which is located in Umbria. Piano Grande was once the bottom of a lake that became empty after an earthquake. Today it is an enormous plain surrounded by lush green hills with dramatic mountains behind. Here is also Monte Vettore, the highest mountain in the national park with its 2476 meters above sea level. On one of the hilltops, 648m high lays the village of Castelluccio, which has become a centre for training of base jumpers. Below the mountains, as a garland around the plain lie fertile fields. A herd of horses are grazing on the plain, and other animal herds graze scattered in the hill landscape. In this unspoiled landscape live wolves, lynxes and wild boars. We saw none of them - only tracks from wild boars. Piano Grande is best known for the spring flower festival, usually in late June - called Fiorita. At that time of year a lot of people are gathering in Castelluccio. It was the blooming Live wished that we should see. We were too early for the Fiorita, but we experienced the earliest part which was beautiful if not so colourful that it would be a few weeks later. First day we went across the plains and up and down in the hilly landscape. It was easy to move, partly on the trail, and partly in the low vegetation. We walked in pastures full of flowers, on top of hills where we had fantastic views of not only the Piano Grande, but also over smaller plains, partly cultivated, partly full of spring flowers - and above all, we were able to enjoy the view of the high, wild mountains. Enrico guided us through a beech forest, and there we came into a field with wild Peons, first a small group among the trees, than in the outskirts of the forest and further down into the plain. They stood there as you would find them in your granny’s garden with numerous other high perennials. We were fascinated and surprised to find these beautiful flowers. Enrico had been looking for them, so he was just as glad as we when they suddenly appeared in front of us in all their glory. Back to Norcia, we were taken to an excellent restaurant where Enrico ordered local specialties and wines for us, all very tasty. The next day started early with home-made cakes in large quantities for breakfast. Quite unusual for us - but why not? The cakes were fresh and tasty. The goal for the next day was Monte Vettore. The weather was quite uncertain. It was also uncertain whether we could go down on the back of the mountain, or whether we had to go back the same way as we came up. The latter was dependent on snow conditions. Per Otto went in thin sneakers and had no sticks. He made the trip fine, but better footwear is highly recommended and sticks are an advantage. We followed a frequently used path towards the top. Substrate is smooth, but consists of pebbles. All who have been in the mountains in early summer knows the feeling of walking through several seasons, depending on how long it is since the snow disappeared, so also here. Partially the path went through areas that looked like rock gardens, and then suddenly turned up into a site with yellow and purple orchids. Then came an area with crocus and Scilla and a place where it was almost impossible not to step on sprouting spring pasque flowers. The entire time we were able to enjoy the sight of higher mountains and wilder landscapes. We did not reach the top of the Monte Vettore. That remains for the next visit. A cottage is found in a pass (2215m). Here we could sit and enjoy the view while the mist enclosed the top. It was also too much snow at the back of the mountain. We had to take the same route down hill. But first we went a little way down the pass until we got a view of the "Spectacle Sea". Actually the name of the seas is Lago di Pilato. Legend tells that it was here the body of Pontius Pilate disappeared from the earth's surface carried in to the world beyond by a herd of cattle. This lake, consisting of two small lakes with a narrow connection gives it a form of a spectacle. It contains a crustacean species that are only found here in one of the lakes. The second one dries out periodically. If the weather it is extra dry, also the sea with the crustaceans is in danger of drought in. It has happened that water has been flown in by helicopters to salvage the crustaceans. It was an experience to see the sea on this day with cracked spectacle lenses (ice flakes). The trip down from the mountains was a photo expedition where we gorged in floral motifs. Enrico was looking for mushrooms. It was early summer and the white spots in the hill sides could be fungi, but alas – more stones again! I will end the story here, still pretty high up the side of the mountain. For us highlights were frequent during this trip. Once we will return a little later in the year when the snow has melted completely and the area is more navigable. Monte Vettore is still in our thoughts. Thanks to Live and Enrico for this lovely experience!
Best regards Kari Morvik and Per Otto Hjertenes